Angler's File

Man made fish cribs are definitely worthwhile to fish providing cover and shelter for juvenile panfish and baitfish, Most cribs are built using hardwood logs strapped together and filled with branches. They attract all large game fish.

The fishes world evolves around the ability to feed, reproduce and survive. Cover, Structure, Temperature and Oxygen are the key components. Understanding the waters of their world will help you determine the type of water and where they live.

Cover & Structure:These two terms are often confused as the same, but they are not. Cover is defined as a type of structure, natural or man made such as weeds, vegetation, fallen trees, docks, and swimming platforms. Structure is the physical characteristics of the water system; points, rock bars, islands, reefs, humps and breaklines. To understand the difference, if you completely drain the water only the structure will not move.

Breaklines & Edges Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Courtesy of Fishing the North Country Publications
Anglers hearing or reading the phrases “fish caught off the first break” or “fish caught on the weed edge” may be confused as to their meaning. All active fish will relate to breaks or edges. Weed beds are like “aquatic neighborhoods” providing all stages of the food chain protection from predators or an ambush source for feeding. Breaklines (Breaks) are defined as an area of transition from one depth to another, one cover type to another, one water temperature to another, one water color to another, one substrate to another or any other transition that could influence fish behavior. Cover (weeds) next to a deep water breakline usually hold more fish than a shallow flat.
Humps and Reefs
Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Courtesy of Fishing the North Country Publications
Any mid lake underwater structure higher than the surrounding area can be classified as a hump or reef, they are among the most productive structures in lakes and flowages. Walleye, smallmouth bass, northern pike and summer/autumn muskie are attractive possibilities. If weeds, boulders and ledges are present, this structure will be even better, producing more game fish.

Points and Bars Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Courtesy of Fishing the North Country Publications
Protruding shoreline points and bars offer a diversity in structure and are fish producers throughout the year. Key bottom components are, inside turns and drops offs. Add cover such as submergent and emergent weeds, drowned wood, brushpiles and manmade cribs and you have a top attraction for all gamefish.

Wood and Weeds
Courtesy of Fishing the North Country PublicationsDrowned wood, laydowns, brush plies composed of fir, pine, oak and maple typically lasts for years. By contrast birch, aspen and popple provide cover for two to three years before decomposing to remnants. Drowned wood is terrific cover. The more complex the branches below the surface the better for fish. More branches more cover for a game fish to ambush prey. Finding “good” drowned wood means finding walleye, smallmouth bass and muskie.

Weeds and weedline edges are important throughout the fishing season as they are used for spawning in spring; shelter, cover and foraging in summer/fall and feeding in winter for all game fish. Fishing the weeds always keep in mind the “cover within cover” principle – weed points, edges, deep weedlines, transitions from one weed species to the next, channels, clumps and inside turns among others.

Types of Weeds
The presence of aquatic plants is one of the best indicators of whether a lake or a stream will be a good producer of fish. Most aquatic life which fish feed upon requires these plants for food. Plants also provide a fishery with protective cover and life-giving oxygen. Aquatic plants are classified into floating, emergent, submerged and algae varieties as each type has slightly different features.
Floating Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Floating plants are not rooted and are free to move about the water’s surface. The main habitat for floating plants are backwater areas on rivers and streams where the current slackens and protected bays on lakes and flowages. In limited water movement area’s floating plants can be mixed in with other emergent and submerged plants forming what is commonly called “slop” by creating a surface mat that attracts largemouth bass, in deeper waters slop will hold northern pike and muskie. Fishing slop is extremely fun when the fish are on and you have the right set-up and lures. Fishing the slop requires heavy tackle and line to horse the fish out of cover. Baitcasting reels spooled with low stretch 17lb to 30lb test line, rods rated heavy with fast action are recommended. Lure choices include weedless soft plastics, worms and lizards using heavy sinkers to penetrate the thick vegetation, top water frog and rat imitations are excellent for surface slop fishing, there is nothing more exciting when a bass explodes on one of these. The common North American native floating plants are Duckweed, Bladderwort and Watermeal.

Emergent
An emergent plant are a rooted shallow water plant found along shorelines areas, which grows in the water but the stems stand above the surface. All emergent plants flower which allows the reproductive process through pollination by wind or by flying insects. Emergent plants provide an important function on the water’s edge that creates a network root system which resists erosion, where wave action and water flow might undercut banks and a barrier for shoreline sediment. These plants create habitat and food supply for many species of insect, fish, bird, and mammal. The most common North American emergent plants are Lily Pads, Bulrushes and Cattails.

White Water Lily PadsThe lily pad is a perennial flat leafed flowering rooted plant that grows in groups. For the most part they are found along shallower waters in sandy or soft bottomed areas. In clear water that can grow up to six to eight feet. The lily pad leaves are more rounded than heart shaped, bright green from 6-12 inches in diameter with a slit about the 1/3 of the leaf. The leaves float on the surface, the flower grow on separate stalks displaying brilliant white petals with a yellow center and are very fragrant. The flower opens each morning and closes as the sun goes down. A favorite habitat for largemouth bass. However many other species such as northern pike and muskies can be found in the lily pads as well.
Bulrushes
There are several species of bulrushes known as reeds and pencil reeds. Bulrushes are perennial rooted grass-like plants and can grow to 10 feet tall in shallow water or in moist soils. Reeds generally grow on firm bottoms, bulrush grows in softer mud bottoms. The bulrush brownish flowers appears just below the tip of the stem. Reeds and bulrush provides excellent fish habitat and spawning areas for northern pike and, in early spring, provide nesting cover for largemouth bass and bluegills. Bulrushes attract marsh birds and songbirds. Seeds of bulrushes are consumed by ducks and other birds.

Cattails
Cattails are found in marshes, ditches, shorelines, shallow areas of lakes, ponds, and slow streams, quiet water up to 4 feet deep. They have slightly twisted rounded leaves, and can grow to 5 or 10 feet in height. Cattails are easily identified by their fuzzy brown cigar shaped flower (called the catkin) near the top of the stalk. Cattails spread rapidly when the catkin releases the seeds blowing in the wind or floating on the water’s surface. The cattail habitat helps stabilize marshy borders of lakes and ponds; helps protect shorelines from wave erosion; northern pike may spawn along shore behind the cattail fringe; provides cover and nesting sites for waterfowl and marsh birds such as the red-winged blackbird, stalks and roots are eaten by muskrats and beavers.

Submerged
Submerged plants are completely underwater and are generally rooted in the bottom sediment. If flowers exist, they may extend above the surface of the water. Submerged plants exchange carbon dioxide for dissolved oxygen during the periods of photosynthesis which provides a relatively stable source of oxygen for a water based ecosystem. Submerged weeds make up the majority of fishing cover (weed flats and weedlines) that will attract most all species walleye, bass, pike, muskie, trout and panfish. The submerged weed family consist of hundreds of species many introduced or exotic that grow prolifically and are considered to problematic in many lakes, rivers and streams. An example of this is Eurasian Watermilfoil

Most fishing articles relating to weeds refer to names such as cabbage, coontail, and eel grass. The following information is a guide for identifying the most common submerged plants that will attract game fish.

Claspingleaf Pondweed (Cabbage)
This plant is known to anglers as cabbage and has over 50 varieties in North America. Cabbage is both a deep and shallow water weed that has broad leaves and a brittle stems. They vary in colors from brownish red called tobacco cabbage to a light green leaf. Cabbage is the preferred choice of many large game fish and the most productive. Cabbage is also known as pike weed, muskie weed, and celery.

Coontail
Coontail or also know as hornwort, is a dark olive green bushy submerged perennial plant that grows in clumps or dense colonies that forms a canopy type cover in shallow water. The tips of branches are crowded with leaves giving it a “coontail” appearance. The submerged colonies of coontail provides excellent habitat and cover for bait fish as well as other wildlife species (e.g. amphibians, reptiles, ducks, etc.)which attracts most predator game fish. The fruits of coontail are consumed by ducks and it is considered a good wildlife food.

Eelgrass
Eelgrass is a rooted shallow water plant found in flowing water. It has long, thin, ribbon-like leaves (1/2 – 3/4 inches wide) that are commonly 3 to 4 feet long. The vein pattern in the leaves of eelgrass is very distinctive and resembles celery. Eelgrass forms dense colonies dominating other submerged plants to grow. The submerged portions of eel grass provides dense underwater structure as an excellent habitat for bait fish and invertebrates. Northern pike and bass favors eelgrass during the summer months. Other common names include: Tape grass and wild celery.

Elodea
Elodea is a rooted multi-branched perennial submerged plant that grows in cool fertile water to depths of approximately 10 feet. It is identified by its deep green color with 3 to 4 leaves attached directly to the stem. This weed develops quickly and provides good early season action, it attracts bait fish and bass along with other large game fish. Elodea has no known direct food value to wildlife but is used extensively by insects and invertebrates. Other common names include: Waterweed and walleye weed.

Cabomba Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Cabomba also know as Fanwort is a long stemmed multi-branched submerged perennial plant similar to coontail and milfoil. It grows in tight beds over large areas, growing to within a foot of the surface. Because of it’s dense cover it provides habitats for micro invertebrates which in turn are used as food by bait fish and other wildlife species. Cabomba has little known direct food value to wildlife

Eurasian Watermilfoil Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Eurasian watermilfoil is a perennial submerged plant native to Europe, Asia, and Africa. It was introduced into the United States in the late 1800′s through the Aquarium Trade. Spread westward into inland lakes primarily by boats and also by waterbirds, it reached Midwestern states between the 1950s and 1980s. Today it is considered one of the most aggressive and invasive plants in the U.S. because of the dense colonies which it forms. This dense floating canopy will inhibit important native plants from growing. In shallow areas the Eurasian watermilfoil can interfere with water recreation such as boating, fishing, and swimming as well. Eurasian watermilfoil can spread from seeds or by fragmentation (A single segment of stem) that can take root and form a new colony. Fragments clinging to boats and trailers can spread the plant from lake to lake. Eurasian watermilfoil is a non-native and should not be spread.
Algae
Algae are a basic water plant, some are composed of tiny single cells that float or suspend in the water giving a green, brown, or at times a red color to the water known as “bloom.” Others are multi celled that forms a thin and stringy or hair-like dark green slime commonly know as pond scum. While still others resemble submerged plants but without a true root system this is known as sandgrass. Algae although primitive, provides benefits to water systems by stabilizing bottom sediments and giving cover for small animals such as aquatic insects, snails, and scuds, which are valuable fish food.
Planktonic Underwater World of Freshwater Fish

Planktonic algae, are floating microscopic single celled plants usually existing suspended in the upper few feet of water often reaching bloom proportions during the summer months based on temperature, light, nutrients making the water appear brownish or pea soup green.
Filamentous
Filamentous algae are multi-celled that form into a mat of long chains or threads called filaments that resembles wet wool. Filamentous algae starts growing along the bottom in shallow water appearing fur-like, attaching to rocks, drowned wood, and other aquatic plants. As the production of oxygen increases it will float to the surface forming large mats, known as “Pond Scum.” Filamentous algae has no direct food value to wildlife.

Chara (Sandgrass)
Chara is the most advanced plant of the algae family though often confused with submerged plants. Chara commonly know as “sandgrass” is gray-green, branched with no root system, it grows in short thick mats, covering the lake bottom like a carpet. It can grow to depths of 30 feet, but is more common in shallower water. The stems/branches are brittle and hollow with rough ends, when crushed it emits a foul musty garlic like odor, often why it is called muskgrass or skunkweed. Sandgrass is beneficial promoting water clarity and lake bottom stabilization. During the mid summer through fall, walleyes and perch will be found on sandgrass flats.
Water Temperature:
Temperature of the water is important because of its affect on water chemistry and thermal stratifications. Chemical reactions during higher temperatures increase the biological activity. Fish, aquatic insects, zooplankton and other aquatic species all have preferred temperature ranges. As temperatures get too far above or below this preferred range, the number of individuals of the species decreases until finally there are few, or none. Another important example of the effects of temperature on water chemistry is its impact on oxygen. Warm water holds less oxygen than cool water. The temperature preferences of common game fish are shown below, but fish are not always found in water of the preferred temperature. If food is more abundant in warmer or cooler water that’s where fish will be located.

· Bluegill 73-77
· Brook Trout 52-56
· Brown Trout 57-61
· Bullhead, Brown 74-78
· Carp 75-84
· Channel Catfish 74-78
· Crappie 68-73
· Chinook Salmon 53-55
· Coho Salmon 54-55
· Flathead Catfish 80-85
· Lake Trout 48-52
· Largemouth Bass 71-76
· Muskellunge 63 -67
· Northern Pike 62-71
· Rainbow Trout 56-62
· Smallmouth Bass 68-72
· Steelhead 58-60
· Stripped Bass 70-74
· Walleye 67-72
· White Bass 74-78
· Yellow Perch 66-70

Oxygen:
Fish and other aquatic organisms require oxygen to live. Fish breathe as water moves past their gills and microscopic bubbles of oxygen gas in the water called dissolved oxygen absorbs into their blood stream. Oxygen in water is produced during photosynthesis (The process in which plant life converts carbon dioxide in to oxygen during daylight hours) Other sources of oxygen include the air and inflowing streams. This is why moving waters rarely have low oxygen levels.

Seasonal Effects on Water Systems:
During each season in natural lakes, flowages, reservoirs, and ponds fish movement is keyed by two major factors: Water Temperature and Dissolved Oxygen. Throughout the year fish will inhabit the zone that is closest to satisfying both these needs. To understand the relationship that happens on water systems, it is important to know the seasonal changes that occur.

In early spring before ice-out on Northern lakes and flowages the water temperature on the bottom reaches around 39 degrees, the remaining ice melts from the sun and wind warming the surface water to 39 degrees. As the water temperature and density is consistent from top to bottom this occurrence is called “Spring Turnover” Fish may be anywhere, but will migrate to the shallows as temperatures warm and new aquatic plant growth takes place adding additional oxygen to the shallow water.

As the surface temperature rises warmer lighter surface water starts to separate from cooler heavier water below. As the water temperature increases the wind will not have an affect on mixing the water. This begins the process of Thermal Stratification on lakes, flowages and reservoirs, typically with water depths greater than 15 feet for small lakes and 30 feet for larger ones. Because of this property the water separates into layers of distinctly different density caused by differences in water temperature. Shallow lakes, rivers and streams will not stratify into layers as the entire water is mixed by the wind or current.

The upper layer (epilimnion) is warmer, lighter and most buoyant water that is circulated by the wind as it renews the oxygen supply. Many game fish use and stay in this layer during the season as plant life and oxygen is abundant and as preferred temperature dictates for each specie.

Next is the middle layer (metalimnion) which includes the thermocline. This is the transition zone where the temperature drops very fast. Schooling fish will use this layer as light and oxygen is present. Finally, the lower layer (hypolimnion) which extends from the thermocline to the lake bottom. Water temperature remains constant but lack of oxygen levels in this layer may cause cold water species to suspend into the thermocline during mid to late summer.

As early fall approaches cool nights and wind will lower the surface temperature. This causes the margin between the layers epilimnion and metalimnion to be less distinct. The hypolimnion layer remains intact and without much oxygen. Fish will move shallower during this period. During mid fall the surface temperature cools even more and begins to sink. As the temperature in the mixed upper layers equals that of the hypolimnion; the wind easily mixes the entire water column causing similar temperature and density throughout thus the water temperature and dissolved oxygen will be constant in all depths. This is known as “Fall Turnover”. Fish will be scattered during this period. In late fall the water continues to cool as the surface temperature drops below 39 degrees it becomes lighter and floats over the deeper warmer water. Fish will be deeper at this time period.

With the beginning of winter early ice forms, fish may be found at any depth but will relate to first ice feeding periods in shallow water using the remaining live weeds. As ice and snow becomes thicker it reduces the sunlight, the plant life ceases starting the decaying process that consumes oxygen. Fish will remain in the mid to upper water column. In late winter as the ice and snow becomes the thickest the water will have it’s lowest oxygen content. Fish locations will be harbored around moving open water, springs or the upper layer that has the highest oxygen content.

Water Classifications:
Each water system possesses a unique “personality”. Important elements that make the basis for physical characteristics are: Water Source, Fertility, and Geographic Location. Lake water sources are classified into four types. Seepage, Groundwater, Drainage and Impoundment.

The water source and fertility is important in determining water quality, all water system levels increase from rain and decrease from evaporation. Run off (land that drains towards the lake) carries nutrients into the water providing a higher fertility level where it fuels algae blooms. Algae is the basic link in the food chain. Lakes with moderate to high fertility produces the largest fish crop. Lakes with low fertility (sterile) surrounded by rocky shorelines and nutrient poor land which inhibits algae blooms produces lower fish production.

Seepage lakes and ponds that rely on rain as there main water supply with limited water exchange (lack of stream inlets & outlets) will be susceptible to acid rain, and high mercury content. On lakes that the major water source is Groundwater or Spring fed, acid rain amounts will be diminished and will contain low to moderate fertility levels.

Drainage lakes (stream fed and drained) fertility levels are higher and water exchange rate takes place more rapidly. These lakes will have quality nutrient rich water and fish populations.

Impoundments are man made lakes, also called reservoirs and flowages created by damming a stream or river system. Most Eastern and Western reservoirs tend to be very deep (over one hundred feet) while Midwest and Southern reservoirs are shallower. Impoundments seldom lack oxygen in the depths due to water level fluctuations created by the dam causing moving water and current.

Geographic Location is another indicator of water type and quality. Lakes are divided into three categories known as trophic states. Oligotrophic – Mesotrophic, and Eutrophic. These categories reflect depth, basin size, shape, nutrient and clarity levels.

Oligotrophic Waters: Mostly found in Eastern Canada and Northern States from Minnesota to Maine. Oligotrophic lakes are clear, deep and cold located in rocky geography. Sparse weed growth and lack of large algae blooms make these lakes low in nutrients. The fish populations ( cold water types: Lake Trout, Char, Northern Pike) are lower but have a food chain capable of sustaining a trophy fishery. Because of the slow growth rate due to the cold climate it is recommended that catch and release is used.

Eutrophic Waters: Predominately found in the Southern United States although there are many in the North. Eutrophic lakes are small, shallow, weedy with cloudy water and a mud basin, usually located in farm land areas where nutrient rich soil is abundant and run off causes frequent algae blooms. The fish populations ( warm water types: Bass, Sunfish. Cat Fish, Rough Fish) are vulnerable to winterkill (iceover) in the Northern States from lack of depth and oxygen.

Mesotrophic Waters: These lakes are found anywhere in North America but primarily are located in the Northern States and Southern Canada. Mesotrophic lakes are fertile with moderate weed growth, water clarity is clear to stained with the basin consisting of gravel, rock and sand. The diversity of water depths and nutrients can support cold and warm water fish populations ( Bass, Walleye, Perch, Northern Pike, Muskies, Catfish, Panfish, Trout) Considered a good fishery for multiple species.

All lakes at one time thousands of years ago formed as Oligotrophic waters (early lake life), as the aging process occurs aquatic plants and animals die, their remains form a layer of organic properties on the lake bottom. As this layer increases the lake becomes shallower allowing the sunlight to warm the water. As plant life becomes more abundant the lake moves into the Mesotrophic period (mid lake life). Eventually as the lake bottom fills from nature and the affects of man the lake will become Eutrophic (old lake life).

Ponds & Pits:
There are millions of ponds in the U.S. some are built for agricultural use, others for irrigation or erosion control. Nature provides ponds by beavers damming small streams. Most ponds are shallow and if stocked warm water fish such as Largemouth Bass and Bluegills are present.

Pits are results from strip mining, gravel pits and quarries that fill with water after their operations cease. Generally pits are much deeper than ponds in some cases over 500 feet. Pits can hold a wide specie range of fish; deep cold water pits: (Trout and even Salmon) shallower pits: (warm water Bass, Catfish, Crappies, and Bluegills).

Rivers & Streams:
North America is blessed with an abundance of flowing water. There are 3.24 million miles of river and streams in the U.S. alone – enough to circle the world 130 times. Rivers begin rather unpretentiously. They are lazy. They follow the force of gravity until they find the most convenient way to flow downhill. This is governed by the topography of the area in which they flow. In time, the river begins to modify this landscape until it creates a valley. The average river system, if viewed from above, looks like a many branching tree. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of small rivulets flow into slightly larger branches, which in turn flow into tributaries. Eventually the water makes its way into the main body of the river, flowing to its final destination a lake or sea.

All freshwater species live or utilize rivers and streams. Ocean run Salmon travel miles up a river to spawn from which they where born. Walleyes and White Bass make spring “runs” to their spawning grounds. Water temperature is a major factor for spawning and what species inhabit the river.Cold water streams and rivers will be best suited for Trout, Steelhead, Salmon and Grayling. Warm water streams and rivers are home to Bass, Walleyes, Catfish, and Carp.

When fishing a stream or river the mechanics of moving water (current) provides structure and cover as in a lake with weeds, cribs, and rock bars. Most rivers and streams have riffle-run-pool fish holding habitat.

Riffles: Known as rapids, shallow fast moving water over rocks rubble and boulders. Small minnows and game fish use this area for protection from predators. Large gamefish will feed in this area during dusk and dawn.

Runs: This section follows the riffle (rapids) current is slower than the rapids and not as turbulent. As the current flows it excavates a deeper channel as it slows it circulates forming a pool.

Pools: Also known as holes, this is the deepest area of the river or stream. A major fish holding area.

Plunge Pools: Located at the base of dams or waterfalls. As water falls it erodes the base of the stream or river creating a dug out. This is also an excellent fish holding area for feeding as food is presented from the force of the current.

Eddies: Any land point, island, sharp bend,large boulder or obstacle such as logs or bridge pilings that reduces the current. Eddies form upstream and downstream. Fish will stage in front of and back of a eddie, always work both.

Undercuts: As rivers and streams have bends, turns, and oxbows the current flowing will increase on the outside bend and on slow in the inside. This forms undercuts along the shoreline that will hold fish.

Read More Info

In determining a fishing rod and reel one must consider the species you are fishing for along with the type of lure or live bait to be used. For instance your rod and reel set-up should match the fishing presentation. If you’re pursuing panfish using light lures or small minnows your outfit should be lightweight for casting and detecting bites, not a heavy baitcaster for pike or bass.
There are five main basic categories of fishing rod and reel combinations, and within each there are multiple sub-categories of specialty types of outfits used for specific fishing applications, for example Walleye fisherman use rod and reel set-ups for slip bobber, slip sinker, jigging and trolling. Bass fisherman carry pitchin’, flippin’, crank baiting, and soft plastics combo’s. Muskie anglers have bucktail, jerk bait and top water outfits. In short, fishing rods and reels have come a long way over time, with new space age materials having been developed for rod construction making them longer and much lighter as well as reels with multiple ball bearings and one piece alloy and graphite frames.
Fishing Rod & Reel Combinations:

Spincasting:This is the preferred set-up for the inexperienced angler. Spincasting outfits are excellent in teaching the beginning angler and children the mechanics of casting. The spin cast reel is mounted above the rod with the reel spool enclosed with a nose cone cover, this prevents line snarling and backlash’s that are associated with bait casting reels. Casting is a simple task, the angler presses and holds down a button on the rear of the reel, this disengages the line pick-up pin, upon the forward cast the line comes off the spool. Once the crank handle is turned the pick-up pin is engaged retrieving the line on the spool.
Spincast reels have low gear ratios as a result of the size of the spool, which makes it difficult to fish lures that require a fast retrieve such as: inline spinners, spinner baits and buzz baits. When purchasing a spincast reel consider selecting models with anti reverse and smooth drag system versus the inexpensive all plastic models with sticky drags that result in broken line. For rods buy fiberglass their durable will hold up from abuse.

Spinning:
Spinning reels where commercially introduced in 1948 by Mitchell Reel Company of France. The design was of a fixed spool reel mounted below the fishing rod with a mechanical pick-up (wire bail) used to retrieve the fishing line. The anti reverse feature prevents the crank handle from rotating while fighting a fish allowing the angler to use the drag. In casting a spinning reel the angler opens the bail, grasping the line with the forefinger, then using a backward snap of the rod followed by a forward cast, the line is drawn off the fixed non rotating spool and not against a rotating spool such as a bait casting reel. Because of this lighter lures can be used where the weight of the lure does not have to pull against a rotating spool. Spinning rods have large fishing line guides to minimize line friction upon casting. Spinning outfits operate best using fairly light weight limp flexible monofilament fishing lines and are used for bluegills, crappies, perch and walleyes.

Baitcasting:
Baitcasting outfits are excellent for many kinds of fishing, and come in a wide variety of options and types: Round and Low Profile, High and Low Retrieve Speed along with anti-reverse handles and line drags designed to slow runs by large and powerful gamefish. Baitcasting outfits are considered the standard when using heavier lures fishing bass, pike and muskie. All bait casting reels are mounted above the rod, when casting the angler moves the rod backward then snapping it forward, the line is pulled off the reel by the weight of the lure. In the early years of bait casting reels the angler used their thumb to control the amount of line travel as well as to prevent the spool overrun or backlash. Today all quality bait casting reels have a spool tension feature for adjusting the centrifugal brake, and or a magnetic ‘cast control’ to reduce spool overrun during a cast and resultant line snare called a birds nest.

For successful casting the most important setting is the casting brake. (The casting brake is the small knob located in the center under the reel handle side) To set the cast control, tie on your lure and reel it to the tip of your rod. Tighten the knob until it feels snug. Push the casting release button. Your lure should not move. Hold the rod at the 2 o’clock position and slowly turn the knob counter clockwise until the lure starts to fall. Let the lure hit the ground and watch the spool. The spool should not spin more than one revolution after the lure hit’s the ground. If it spins more than one revolution, tighten the cast control knob and repeat the procedure. If the spool does not spin after the lure hit’s the ground, the cast control is set too tight. Loosen the knob and repeat the procedure.

Baitcasting reels offer the angler a wide variety of fishing line options ranging from the new super lines (Braided Low Stretch) to copolymer “Fluorocarbon” and nylon monofilament. Baitcasting rods have also evolved from the older 5-6 foot pool cue rods to 7-9 foot lengths used today allowing increased casting distance and accuracy. Overall bait casting outfits are best suited for the experienced angler, they can be intimidating but you can learn with a little time and effort. In learning the casting technique we recommend practicing on land with a plastic casting plug.

Trolling:The term trolling not only reflects the type of equipment, but a commonly used method of fishing. Trolling is a form of angling where lines with hook-rigged lures are dragged behind a boat to entice fish to bite. Trolling outfits are very similar to bait casting set-ups, as the trolling reels are mounted above the rod. Trolling rods range from long and limber for downriggers and planer boards to stiff for large crank baits. The spool line capacity on trolling reels is greater than bait casting reels to accommodate heavier fishing line that is used for long line big water trolling.
All trolling reels have three basic features: star drag (Line Braking System) on the reel handle for fighting large game fish, an on/off line release lever and a line out alarm (Clicker) other options are a line counter allowing the angler to replicate the amount of line used on successful fish catching patterns. Trolling can be as simple as just letting line off the reel with an attached lure known as flat lining or using rigging systems such as a downriggers, planer/trolling boards and dipsey divers. ( See our trolling section for more rigging information).
Trolling reels are designed to offer the most versatility when it comes to fishing line options. Inland freshwater anglers use monofilament and lead core for walleyes and salmon, Muskie & Pike anglers use low stretch braided super lines for trolling large plugs and spinners. Coastal saltwater anglers use wire lines made of stainless steel, titanium or a combination of metal alloys to prevent toothy fish from severing the line. Trolling is a productive fish catching technique by presenting multiple lures covering a lot of water, it is also illegal in some area’s of the country so please check your local fishing regulations.

Flycasting:
The art of fly fishing has been documented going back for hundreds of years dating to ancient times, countless articles have been written regarding legendary trout stream fishing or for European salmon. The angling method of fly fishing is casting a fly or streamer consisting of a hook tied with fur,feathers, foam, or other lightweight materials to mimic insects, minnows and other aquatic creatures. The fly lure is non-weighted for which the fly rod uses the weight of the fly line in casting the fly lure. Fly lines are available in a variety of forms varying from tapered sections (double-tapered, weight-forward, shooting-head) level (even through out) as well as floating and sinking types, attached on the end of the fly line is a leader of monofilament or fluorocarbon fishing line called a tippet in whichthe fly lure is tied to. Fly rods are long, thin, flexible fishing rods originally made of split bamboo, but now are constructed from man made composite materials (fiberglass, carbon/graphite and boron/graphite) ranging from 6ft to 14ft in length.
The fly line, not the lure, determines casting. Fly rods are sized (matched) by the weight of the fly line from size #0 rods for the smallest freshwater trout and panfish up to and including #16 rods for large saltwater game fish. Fly fishing reels are mounted below the rod with the basic design of line storage. Early fly reels often had no drag systems just a clicker that was used to keep the reel from overrunning the line when pulled from the spool, the angler used their hand as a line brake known as palming when fighting a fish. Newer fly reels have incorporated disc type drag that allows the angler the adjustment range using the combination of the rod and reel to control large game fish in powerful runs.
There are several types of casts in fly fishing, the most common is the forward cast. The angler starts by stripping line off the reel with one hand while whipping the rod in a series of back a forth motions over the shoulder. The correct angle is 10 o’ clock to 2 o’ clock. The main objective is to load the rod with stored energy then transmit that energy to the fly line allowing the angler the acceptable amount of casting distance. The goal is to present the fly lure in such a way that the line lands smoothly on the water’s surface and appears natural. Other casting techniques are false casting, used to cast a fly lure with out landing on the water, others are single and double haul cast, roll cast side, or curve cast and the tuck cast. If you’re considering fly fishing we highly recommend that you seek professional guidance by visiting your local fly fishing pro shop in selecting the rod, reel and fly lures as well as receiving lessons on casting.
Fishing Reel Features:In selecting the right reel for your style of fishing there are literally thousands of different reels on the market today to choose from. For the less experienced angler this can be somewhat confusing. Before we compare the features of fishing reels here are some pointers that will help you determine a list of requirements for the best type of reel to use. First, what kind of fish will you be catching? What is the average size, and angling technique? Will you be casting lures using live bait or trolling. What pound test line is best suited for the fishing application. These answers will narrow down your search and aid in purchasing the proper reel. As a general guideline the lighter the line and smaller the game fish the best reel choice for the novice anglers and children is a spincast reel. For the more proficient caster using the same set-up a spinning reel is best. As the targeted species gets larger requiring heavier line and lures a conventional reel or bait caster will be the better choice.
For the best performance from your reel, the reel must be balanced with your rod. If you use a reel that weighs too much for the rod it will feel butt heavy. You will have problems casting and it will take away the sensitivity from the rod tip in feeling a fish strike. Conversely, a reel that is too light for a rod will make it feel tip heavy, by fishing for a length of time your wrist will tire by trying to hold the rod upward.For a properly balanced outfit hold the rod with the reel attached on the fore grip (the handle above the reel) by using a few fingers, the rod should sway back and forth and stay somewhat horizontal not completely moving forward or backward, if not change reel sizes or rod length to achieve a balanced outfit.
Listed below are the features and components that make up fishing reels, many of them are universal and found on all types of reels, these descriptions will help you identify and understand the ideal reel for your angling needs.
Anti Reverse:The anti reverse function on fishing reels is so the handle does not turn backwards when the line is pulled from the reel as the drag is used. Spinning reels have an anti reverse on/off lever that will allow the angler the choice of engaging the drag or back reeling when fighting a fish. Most baitcasting reels today have anti reverse as a standard feature. High quality reels that feature the number of bearings on models followed with a single number such as 7+1 indicates a anti reverse bearing which with tighter machining tolerances provides the angler with a “no play in handle” giving the angler complete control during stop and go retrieves and solid hook sets. For larger game fish some bait casting and trolling reels use a additional anti reverse gear along with the bearing this adds security if the bearing can not handle the strain of hard running fish.
Ball Bearings:
All conventional fishing reels contain either ball bearings or bushings built within the reel to operate the spool smoothly. It is the generally thought that the greater amount of bearings in a reel the smoother the operation and the higher the cost. But one must consider that the amount of bearings does not necessarily mean that the reel is smoother than others with less. Reel companies only list the total number of bearings for the reel, not the type or quality of the bearings. In other words a 2 ball bearing reel machined with tight tolerances and high quality factory sealed stainless steel bearings will perform longer and smoother than a reel with 6 ball bearings made of brass. The deciding factor when it comes to purchasing a new reel should not be limited to just the number of bearings but the overall performance, (smooth cranking, machining & bearing qualities ) as comparing to other reels in determining which is the smoothest.
Casting Controls: (Baitcasting)All quality baitcasting reels come with built in casting control systems that help determine how fast the spool is spinning when casting. These systems are centrifugal and magnetic, depending on the model some have one some have both and are either externally adjustable or internal. The centrifugal casting control is located on the reel handle side and his adjusted by turning the knob forward or backward. The magnetic control braking system is located on the other side with a numbered position dial to increase or decrease the amount of magnetic force applied to the spool. This is the fine tuning feature found on more expensive reels that works with a internal transfer braking mechanism, at the beginning of a cast (with the increased RPM‘s) this mechanism rotates out towards the braking magnets to slow the spool which helps reduce backlashing. While no bait casting reel is considered backlash free even with all of the casting features to help control the spool casting speed. It is still advisable to apply light thumb pressure on the spool in order to prevent a backlash.
Drag:All types of fishing reels have a drag system. The drag feature is a tension setting applied to the spool of the reel, think of it as a clutch or line braking system. The drag uses a set of multiple disc washers that compress when pressure is increased or relaxed when decreased. The concept of the drag is letting the line unwind in a controlled manner off the reel when a fish pulls so hard that the line is in danger of breaking. The drag should be set tight enough for a hook set, but loose enough to come off of the fishing reel easily.
Baitcasting/Trolling/Spincast reels use a star-shaped wheel located on the reel handle called a star drag, adjustments are made by turning the wheel to the proper tension. Spinning reels have two types of drags – front drag and a rear drag. Front drags are generally smoother than a rear drag. The front drag features larger, multiple disc drag washers on the spool that offer a higher level of performance and durability. The rear drag uses applied pressure on the drive shaft. Rear drag spinning reels may offer convenience and ease of use, but they normally don’t stand up to big fish and demanding conditions like front drag reel models. Lever drags are a available feature on high end (expensive) trolling and baitcasting reels. Lever drags allows the tension to be adjusted in more precise smaller increments which supplies a smoother fish fighting performance.
As a rule always check your drag before your first cast.Pull the line with your hand, if you have a decent amount of resistance, you should be fine. In cases where you hook a exceptional sized fish the drag should be adjusted (increased) as you feel the size of the fish. Another tip to reduce reel maintenance; when storing your reels for a extended amount of time, back off the drag tension setting. Leaving drag settings tight will cause the drag washers to become flat reducing the tension ability.
Gear Ratios:All reel manufactures list the gear ratio on their products. The gear ratio refers to how many revolutions the spool of the reel makes per one complete turn of the reel handle. For instance a high speed reel with a 6:1 ratio will make 6 revolutions versus a low speed reel at 3:1 with 3 revolutions per each turn of the reel handle. Generally low speed reels are best suited for lures that require a slow presentation and greater cranking power such as crank baits for bass and pike, and large muskie baits. High speed reels are better for working lures quickly when the angler seeks speed for “burning” bucktails, spinnerbaits, and lipless crank baits. Reels with the range of 5.1 are the best compromise if purchasing a single reel. Another alternative is a two speed reel that the angler can shift from high speed to low speed with a simple push or pull of a button.
Level Wind:
Found on most baitcasting and trolling reels as the name implies, the level wind feature automatically places the line evenly or level across on the spool upon retrieving the line. On low profile and smaller round baitcasting reels the line guide will remain in its’ position when casting, on larger round bait casting reels the line guide will follow the line when casting. This offers the angler the convenience of not manually guiding the line on the spool, which if not properly done will usually pile up in the center of the spool.
Line Capacity:
Printed on the reel or it’s package is a guideline of the amount of fishing line that the spool of the reel will hold. This chart is based on the use of monofilament line and will look like this: 8/(175) 10/(155) 12/(130) the first number is the lb test followed by the amount of yards. This indicates the line rating set by the manufacturer for 8-12 lb test line to work correctly without either stressing parts or making it difficult to use.
By varying the pound test line on the reel such as placing 40lb on a reel rated for 8lb-12lb will give you an inadequate amount of line due to the increased line thickness making the reel difficult to cast as well as increasing the stress and eventual failure on the drag (By setting the drag too tight) With the advent of new fishing lines with increased lb test and reduced diameters we still recommend that you follow guideline placed on the reel by the reel company.
Line Counters:This reel feature is found exclusively on trolling reels. It allows a reference by which anglers can consistently return a bait to the same depth or distance from the boat when flat line trolling or rigging (Downriggers, Dipsey Divers and Trolling Boards) There are two types of reel line counters, Analog and Digital. Analog line counters resemble car odometers, clicking off numbers as the spool revolves. Digital line counters provide the same line usage reading as the analog but can also be programmed for differences in line thickness accounting for impressive accuracy. Line counters are also very useful on how much line is left on your reel after a fish makes a run.
Line Out Alarm:
This feature is a audible alarm alerting the angler of a fish strike also known as a clicker or bait alarm. A simple on-off switch is used in the free spool mode. Always disengage the clicker when retrieving or casting. Line out alarms are available on baitcasting and spinning reels. They are mainly used for presenting live/cut bait on the ocean and freshwater muskie fishing using suckers.
On / Off Free Spool Lever:On trolling reels there is a simple on/off lever that when switched on engages the reel for retrieving the line, when switched off it is in free spool allowing the angler to let the line run off the reel using a bait or lure. Always keep your thumb on the free spool to control the amount of line released to prevent a backlash.
Reel Housings and Frames:Most reel housings and frames are constructed of either aluminum (die-cast or forged) or graphite. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, reels made of anodized aluminum are generally stronger and more durable than the graphite models, however, they are heavier. Graphite-bodied reels are light and corrosion resistant, yet they normally don’t offer the same strength and durability as die-cast or forged aluminum fishing reels. Due to the nature of a spinning reel’s design, their bodies are composed of multiple pieces. Many conventional baitcasting reels are also constructed in the same fashion; however, some manufacturers have introduced one-piece graphite frames. This design increases the overall integrity and strength of the reel, while maintaining the lighter weight.
Spools:When selecting a reel the material type and design of the spool should be a point of consideration. There are two common materials used, machined anodized aluminum and graphite. Of the two the anodized aluminum spool offers greater strength and durability than graphite spools, which can break or crack under torque. On many baitcasting aluminum spools holes have been drilled in to reduce the weight while increasing casting distance. For big water heavy duty fishing large baitcasting and trolling spools are made from metal, using bronze or stainless steel that will offer the strength and capacity required for specialty lines such as heavy dacron or wire used for trolling. Spinning reels today feature a “skirted” spool that overlaps the reel frame, preventing the line to become entangled with in the reel housing. Other skirted spinning reel spool options offers a choice of a standard spool, or a shallower, elongated “long cast” spool design. In theory, the newer long-cast spool design allows for reduced line friction, resulting in greater casting distance.
Fishing Rods:
Fishing Rods have evolved over the years, from the early days using natural materials with fixed fishing lines such as sticks, bamboo and cane poles to rods using steel or fiberglass to the rods of today using graphite or composites of graphite, fiberglass, boron and carbon. With this development of the rod materials came the specialty rods, rods designed for a fishing technique or lure such as jigging, jerkbait, worm, pitchin, flippin, crank baits, trolling, top water etc… the specialty rods are a specific tool, used and developed by tournament and pro anglers, for the recreational angler the catch rate will not increase based on having a specialty rod or rods, but place a specialty rod in the hands of an experienced fisherman in presenting a certain bait or lure and with their knowledge of fishing it will give them the edge in catching more fish.
As the old cliché states: “You get what you pay for” For the recreational angler we recommend spending as much as your budget allows, the better the rod the more sensitive it will be, the more responsive it will be, you will be able to cast farther feel structure, rocks, weeds and the most important feel fish strikes. Part of being a better angler is the ability to place your lure/bait exactly where you want it, often as quietly as possible, and a good rod will definitely help you accomplish this. With the numerous rod selections available today here’s a few suggested basic rod buying tips that will cover multiple fishing presentations.
5‘-6″-6‘-0″ Spincast Rod
Power: Light
Action: Soft
Lure Weight
Test Line Rating 4lb-8lb
Fishing: Panfish (Crappies Perch Bluegills) and Walleye. Spooled with 6lb test. Good combo set-up for children and novice anglers for easy casting and bobber fishing.
7‘-0″ Spinning Rod
Power: Light
Action: Soft
Lure Weight 1/32 – 1/8oz
Test line rating 4lb-6lb
Fishing: Panfish (Crappies Perch Bluegills) and early season Walleye spooled with 4lb test monofilament for Float(Bobbers) with live-bait, small jigs and light lures 1/16-1/8oz.
7’-0″ Spinning Rod
Power: Medium Light-Medium
Action: Moderate
Lure Weight 1/8 – 3/8oz
Test Line rating 8lb-12lb
Fishing: Walleye and Bass spooled with 8lb test monofilament for live bait and soft plastic bottom rigs, jigs, tubes and mid weight lures 1/8-3/8oz.
6’-6″-7’-0″ Baitcasting Rod
Power: Medium-Medium Heavy
Action: Fast
Lure Weight 3/8 – 1 oz
Test line rating 10lb-17lb
Fishing: Bass and Northern Pike spooled with 12lb-15lb test monofilament with a leader primarily for heavier artificial lures 3/8-1oz (spoons, crankbaits, inline spinners, spinner baits, topwater)
Length: 7’-0″
Type: Baitcasting Rod
Power: Extra Heavy
Action: Fast
Lure Weight: 1-3oz
Test line rating: 25lb +
Fishing: Northern Pike and Muskies spooled with 50lb-80lb braided line with a leader
for presenting heavy lures 1oz and up ( inline spinners, spinner baits, jerk baits, gliders, crank baits, top water)
Rod Materials:
Fiberglass: Fiberglass rods have been popular since the 1950’s taking over the era of steel rods, in terms of performance and features fiberglass does lack the sensitivity of the newer rods today made from graphite and weighs more, but is noted for it’s toughness and soft/moderate action. Some anglers use fiberglass when fishing crank baits for the slow action and muskie anglers use fiberglass in cold weather for quick strike rig sucker fishing where the rod sensitivity is not required but the toughness (setting the hook especially in very cold weather and not breaking the rod) is needed. Fiberglass is also a very good choice for children starting out in fishing where durability is an issue.
Graphite:Graphite rod building started in the 1970’s and has continued to this day. Most all quality rods today are built using graphite and have become the preferred choice for rod blank builders. The benefits of graphite rods are many, they’re extremely light, sensitive and flexible, which is vital for light biting fish, along with being strong and powerful to handle larger game fish.
In marketing graphite rods a few common terms have been developed to associate the quality of the rod. The first is “modulus graphite rating”, graphite comes in what looks like sheets of cloth, the cloth is measured to determine the amount and stiffness to weight of modulus fibers. If your shopping for a new rod don’t base your decision solely on the modulus rating, the higher the rating the better the rod. For high performance rods the combination of fiber strength, resin toughness with the amount of fiber, resin and cross-scrim construction (overlapping layers to achieve exceptional strength and action) are more important than the modulus count or rating. Rods with high graphite modulus ratings tend to be brittle and need to have a secondary chemical added on the blank to increase the strain/strength rate. This is called a composite blank. The other term that rod companies use to identify a blank style is IM with a following number such as IM6 or 7 and currently up to 10. The IM rated rods are not regulated by industry standards or an indication of quality but rather a trade name for particular graphite produced by the Hexcel Corporation. Since some rod companies use the IM designation ratings to refer to their rod blanks that are not supplied by Hexcel, at least you can compare the rods built by the same manufacturer, being assured that the higher the IM ranking the higher the graphite quality of the rod.
Rod Ratings: Action / Power Fishing Rods & Reels

Action refers to the flex characteristics of a rod, in other words how much the rod bends when you put pressure on the tip and how far the rod flexes. Action ranges from extra fast where just the tip flexes to slow or softer where the majority of the rod flexes. Fast action rods are the best choice when the fishing technique requires the sensitivity of feeling light biting fish or when fishing for large game fish in heavy cover and weeds where the key is to setting the hook fast with just a snap of the wrist moving the fish’s head up and away. For instance, fast action light rods are used for jigs, soft plastic worms or twitching minnow/shad shaped crank baits for bass and walleye. Heavier fast action rods are used for Muskies & Pike in burning bucktails, walking top water lures or a cadence retrieve on gliders and jerkbaits. The moderate action rod is the most common choice due to the versatility of fishing applications, in casting a moderate action rod it will bend for about half of it’s length which will provide more casting distance and still have the capability for a adequate hookset. Ideal for slip bobbers/floats live bait for walleye fishing because the fish is less likely to feel resistance from the soft tip and drop the bait, along with reaction lures such as crank baits, spinner baits and spoons for bass and pike where the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish’s mouth. Slow or Soft Action rods will bend starting in the lower third using nearly the entire rod providing the most flexibility. Because of this parabolic action the angler is using the rod as a shock absorber in fighting the fish, this allows the use of very light line. These rods are used for panfish especially for the paper thin mouths on crappies so the hook is not ripped clear on hooksets, and are also popular for drift fishing spawn sac’s on trout and salmon streams.
Power:A rod’s power describes how much a rod will flex under a load also referred as a rod’s “backbone”. The thickness and type of rod material will determine this, power ratings are usually described as heavy, medium heavy, medium, light, etc… some rod companies use a numerical system 1-10 with 1=Ultra Light-10= Extra Heavy. The rod’s power rating is closely related to the suggested line strength. It is important to follow the line test guideline limits printed on the rod since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Another factor to consider is the fishing presentation, muskie, pike, and bass in weeds and cover will require a strong power rod using heavier line, on open water where hard to see light line is used for walleyes and crappies use a lighter power rod. Quite often anglers get confused with rod power ratings and action. As a example the power rating is listed on the rod, the flex of the rod is considered the action.
Rod Line Guides:These are the circular loops affixed to the rod and run the length of the rod blank, The concept is simple, keeping the line from touching the rod, this offers a smooth surface for the line to pass over. The technology of rod guide designs has improved dramatically over the years from the old metal guides and the classic agate inserts of earlier rods. Most of the new guides today are made of two parts: a metal frame (stainless) attached to the rod blank and some form of a insert (inner ring) using Ceramic, Alconite, Silicon Carbide or Hardloy. Some rods use line guides made of all stainless steel wire instead of inserts, these guides are lighter reducing the overall rod weight, but they are not as smooth as rods using inserts. The newest line guide introduced is made from titanium wire, which will spring back even if they’re bent flat unlike the stainless guide that will break. The overall purpose of the rod line guides manufactured today is to provide less friction along with reducing the line fray and wear in the guides during the cast. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat definitely doesn’t help when it comes to fishing lines. The total amount of line guides on a rod are a important feature as well, the higher amount of guides the better, as they ensure distance on the cast, and when fighting a fish the energy/ stress on the rod is dispersed though out the entire rod blank. Depending of the rod power rating line guides are available in two different styles, single and double foot. Single foot guides adds less weight on the rod and help retain sensitivity, these are used for mainly ultra – light to medium power rods. The double foot line guides are used when sensitivity is not required but strength is as they are wrapped twice on the rod blank. These are found on heavy to extra heavy power rods used for larger game fish.
Handle / Reel Seats:The combination of a quality rod handle and reel seat are as important as the rod blank itself. The reel seat is where the reel is attached to the rod and constructed of graphite and aluminum or both. Graphite is lighter and more sensitive, while aluminum is stronger. Some reel seats offer a cutout that allows direct finger contact on the rod blank for greater sensitivity. The rod handle is also referred to as “grips” and are located below and above the reel seat. Cork is the preferred choice on rod handles as it is lightweight, durable, and transmits rod vibrations even when wet better than synthetic materials using EVA foam. There are varying grades of cork based on the rod’s cost, the higher the rod price the better quality of cork used. Another alternative is cork tape to achieve the look of cork. Composite cork is made by combining a mixture of cork particles and resin, this combination is more durable than using straight cork.

Read More Info

First impressions

The reel

The rod

On the water

Worthwhile features

Quality where it counts

Reel specifications Penn Spinfisher V 3500

Features:

Tips For Fishing at Night

Pick Up Your Boat and Head Out Kayak Fishing

What You Need

Fishing Equipment

Where to Launch

Where to Fish

What Do We Catch?

Cautions

Tournaments

FOR SALE: SARABURI – 4.2M BOAT WITH 40HP ENGINE – SGD6,000

What is Fly-Tying?

The Skills You'll Need

How to Learn

Fly-Tying Materials

Bass Hunter® EX 9 foot 6 inch Boat